Categories
Foundations

My Hierarchy of Art

I have a problem with the term ‘buckets.’ I hear it all the time in marketing, specifically in the dispiriting discipline of managing ‘content’. The idea is to taxonomise all the stuff you want to talk about, allocating topics to different holding pens until needed. The more buckets you have, the more well-rounded you must be as a brand. But once something has been dissected into the bucket system, can they be meaningfully brought back together again? What’s to stop things feeling bitty? How do you keep the complexity and promote exchange?

When beginning to plan out some posts for Liquid Texts, thematic separation felt like a given: ‘this liquid meets that text and the very specific thing I want to explore about their relationship is this.’ Especially right now, though, I’m struggling with such hygienic segmentation. Perhaps appropriately for the given name of this blog, things feel really ‘fluid’ currently.

I see now that there are holes in my buckets, everything sloshing together in a chaotic and soupy manner. I started off trying to keep things apart and distinct – it felt more writerly. It fostered the illusion of being in control. But the world I see around us is not conducive to feeling in control. I’ve just re-read the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy books and in the final instalment, Douglas Adams advances the ‘Whole Sort of General Mish Mash’ as the sanest way to confront the universe. This feels like wisdom – we are all in one giant bucket.

What of my buckets for Liquid Texts, then? Is this in danger of becoming one of those anarchic, indigestible stream-of-consciousness blogs? No. Buckets are, I realise, necessary. Though I like my blends, I like hygienic borders around them (however temporary those borders may be).

But rather than having utilitarian containers of arbitrarily segregated stuff, I want to deploy ‘buckets’ as a child might during a day at the seaside: as a tool for play. Let’s make buckets ephemeral aquariums for the weird and wonderful inhabitants of those rockpools on the margins of the mind; let’s use them as a framework with which to build sandcastles, almost certain to be washed away by the incoming waves.

So here is a Top 5 devoted to different creative forms, embracing texts but going beyond them. For each one, I briefly discuss how alcoholic liquids relate to it. The point is to remind myself of creative cross-pollination. In this thought experiment, the best ‘buckets’ are in fact permeable.

5. Film

Whenever my peers start discussing movies, I cower, I cringe, I prevaricate. I go to the cinema about as often as I get my nose hair waxed. I haven’t seen A Clockwork Orange, or Bladerunner, or all of Reservoir Dogs. But I do like Studio Ghibli movies, and Pixar.

As Dave Chang and Nick Kroll discussed on a recent podcast, perhaps animation is the key – drawing and CGI create a Trojan Horse for approaching the biggest themes. Watching My Neighbour Totoro for the first time, I was struck by how much space there was; a child’s anxiety for a parent was embraced by a rich and fantastical relationship with the natural world, not placed in opposition to it. Images, soundtracks and themes build a world, at the core of which is a kernel of pure magic.

As someone who doesn’t really engage with cinema, the reason it is in my top 5 art forms is because it can reliably convey this magic of make-believe.

4. Ceramics

Maybe it’s The Great Pottery Throwdown I have to thank for this, or perhaps discovering Joely Clinkard’s work here in north London before Christmas is a factor, but objects made from clay are really doing it for me right now. Not for the last time in this post, I’ll invoke the word ‘organic’ – wine is one expression of the earth, but a clay sculpture connects even more directly. A mug, like the one I bought from Joely, is an everyday object for everyday things. But beauty clusters on the surface and radiates from the heart. It is simple, yet with an anchoring depth. Again, not to denigrate wines, beers and spirits, but their emotional potency is wired differently to wonderful pottery. The aesthetic imposed upon these products is another step removed from the thing itself. 

3. Literature

As my piece on Moby Dick, Mountains of the Mind, and an expensive Johnnie Walker shows, I like to read books and think. Whether it is a blurb about a sandwich or a disquisition on our species in relation to the cosmos, if the tone is right I will be satisfied and stirred. Another Macfarlane book, Underland, blew my tiny mind last year with the extent of its ideas, articulacy and poetry.

Spirits occasionally move me in similar ways, but I believe that the organic, earthy magic of wine gets me closest to the emotional tenor of great writing. Maybe it’s because there is a lot of great writing about wine. Writers like Dan Keeling, Andrew Jefford and Bianca Bosker introduce me to the mercurial vividness of certain bottles, and to the fecundity of ideas held by many of the people who make them. It is hard to read about a Frank Cornelissen, or hear a Maggie Harrison or Mimi Casteel talk about blending and ecology, without wanting to start a blog tracing the links between little units of alcoholic juice we manufacture, and the grandest things we as a culture have ever imagined.

2. Sport

Sport, from one perspective, is about gifted people improvising within the rules of a given game. When performed well, those movements can be beautiful and, when they surpass what we believe to be possible, exceptionally meaningful. Sport lends itself to mythmaking but also statistics and, in this regard, there are parallels to the world of thoughtfully created drinks.

What drinks category maps on to an entire sport, though? How might processes and flavours be consistent with spectacle? I do see cricket as a possible analogues, as a wearing pitch and the constantly evolving permutations of a multi-day game mirror the slow weathering of whisky in the cask, or wine in the bottle. There is certainly enough arcana, history and larger-than-life personalities in cricket to enthrall lovers of red Burgundy. But I tend to view the mechanics of sport as existing in a completely different bucket to the aesthetics and moments of drinks.

1. Music

As much as I love the clarity of literature and the immediacy of sport, music is without question the highest form of art. A lot of people opine that my job is rather cushy, but I consider anyone able to make a living from music – or at least get away with spending most of their time involved in it – to be akin to a demi-god. Body, mind, even the dynamo of desire that exists within me, all align and cohere when I’m listening to music I love. My great spirits romance – Scotch whisky – doesn’t get close.

Song Exploder is a fascinating and valuable resource. Not only does it peer in at creative process, but it demonstrates how great songs are constructed. Songs have multiple tracks, featuring diverse textures, rhythms, melodies and counterpoints. I’m not the first to see the parallels to whisky blending, although I compare a great blender to a producer behind a studio mixing desk as opposed to a conductor in front of an orchestra.

Yet, you could give me the gunkiest Clynelish; the most hyperbolically fruity Ben Nevis; an entire vat of 10yo Macallan (the kind that went into the 100 Proof bottlings of the late 70s and 80s); the fattest and creamiest Dumbartons; the most kaleidoscopically tropical Bowmores of the 1950s and 60s, together with the leatheriest, most hauntingly aromatic Karuizawas… Hand over all of that, and I still couldn’t make you a whisky as rhapsodic as the 6-odd minutes you’ll spend listening to The War on Drugs’ ‘Harmonia’s Dream’.

The inspirations behind Liquid Texts are broad and rather than obey the bucket hegemony, I will try to install connecting pipework between them. We’ll see how my plumbing develops.

Categories
Foundations

The Taxonomy of Liquid Texts

What do I mean when I say that liquids – especially distilled spirits – have textual characteristics? I didn’t exactly boss the literary theory module I took at university – don’t worry, I’m not about to invoke Habermas or Lacan.

In simple terms, therefore, drinks are made by people and reflect their creative decisions. The more creative decisions that underpin a brandy, whisky or rum, the more complex and communicative that liquid becomes to someone like me, a person perhaps a little too willing to read more deeply into things.

My thesis emerged in the course of blending Scotch whiskies. The moment you consciously combine one spirit with another, you have created a drama with two characters. The potential for conflict and transformation is vast but not entirely predictable: the blender gives a degree of autonomy to her creations.

Whisky, just like everything else we humans make, has context. The phrase ‘liquid history’ is so often used of older spirits, or those from long-lost distilleries. Truly, however, every liquid tells a story. Some stories just happen to be more nuanced, powerful and enchanting than others.

While the objective principles behind distillation and cask maturation are of course scientifically understood, liquid creation remains an experiment in self-expression.

Below is my own taxonomy of liquid texts, based on a lot of thinking around whisky.

Single Casks = Tweets

A given percentage are amusing, rich with reference; a handful can be dazzling and draw the eyes of the world. Most are insipid and interchangeable, lacking in originality and promptly forgotten. Brevity may be the soul of wit but, as Twitter shows, not in all cases. As I shall discuss at some length in a future post, single casks rarely need more than the original 140 characters in which to say their piece because wooden containers are not intrinsically eloquent. Owing to the fact that most barrels and butts originate from the same three or four cooperages, a lot of single cask bottlings tend to have tremendously similar backstories when left to their own devices. What meaningfully separates this cask/Tweet from another?

Mainstream Single Malt Bottlings = Haikus

Though targeting somewhat different people, your standard core range single malts and conventional single cask releases have some commonalities. Both tend to do two or three things quite well. Mainstream single malt bottlings, however, benefit from humans arranging those three tricks so they perform reliably; they are precise, measured, allusive. They are designed: to capture a mood, to fit a particular moment. A good example would be Ardbeg Wee Beastie 5YO, for which my haiku would be:

This peaty caper,
A comic book printed on
Pear Drops with squid ink.

Limited Editions = Short Stories

Whisky is almost as awash with special, ‘limited’ releases as it is single casks. I don’t share the suspicion of many towards these latter bottlings because I care about the context as much as the liquid character. Chances are the release in question has been a dedicated project, worked on by a specific team of people, maybe bringing some new creative thinking to bear on a liquid. Going back to Ardbeg, Scorch is a short story, just as Blaaack is. They are pacy, fun, with an often singular intensity. Ardbeg is a prime example of a producer creating liquid texts.

Recurring Limited Editions = Sci-fi and Fantasy Novels

Certain releases come about regularly. Compass Box Flaming Heart is one example, Ardbeg Supernova or 19YO Traigh Bhan are others. Each instalment refers to and builds upon characteristics and plot lines introduced in prior releases. There is a heavy reliance on mythmaking and the kind of easter eggs beloved by Trekkies. If you are scouting out these bottlings, chances are you are already some distance down the rabbit hole – and loving it.

Aged Blended Scotches = Modernist Novels

There is something truly powerful to me about the allure and mystique of aged blends. The interplay between malt and grain is usually a mystery, the cast of characters dimly perceived. Plot is more a function of taster interpretation. Nevertheless, when faced with a glass, you know you ought to be impressed. The more deluxe expressions from Johnnie Walker, and others such as The Last Drop, all play with signs and symbolism; they are as much about aura as aroma.

Small batch blends of aged spirits, especially French brandy and malt whiskies = Palimpsests

The highest form of textual intrigue in my book (!). Dave Broom was the first writer, that I observed, to bring the concept of palimpsests into whisky. He discussed it in relation to the ghostly, pyrrhic presences of closed distilleries – I mean to show that palimpsest spirits can be very much alive. To my mind, they are more common in the independent bottling space, where a third party reconstructs spirits, drawing on their own sensibility to add layers of annotation and, occasionally, doodles in the margin. What’s important is that specific makers layer their creativity on top of one another, interacting across different moments in time through spirits. Samaroli’s blended malts from the 90s and early 2000s are great examples.

Armagnac Sponge No. 1 from this year is another. Grapes were grown in two regions, over two separate vintages; the wines were possibly distilled using equipment loaned from a cooperative rather than owned by the domaines in question; the spirits were put into casks of who knows what antiquity from specific black oak forests, then somehow acquired by Grosperrin in Cognac. Thanks to a long-standing relationship with Grosperrin, a Scottish independent bottler and satirist tastes through a range of spirits and, subject to his own creative caprice, blends them together. Stories accrue like lacquers, on the bottle and within it. The label shows that this is very much a work of the moment, but the traditions and statements of the past flow in constant colloquy behind it.